Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Wish I didn't go for that auto-rickshaw ride...

When I was discussing writing as a career option with a journalist friend, she off handedly remarked that Mumbai is full of stories. Looking back at my last year and half in Mumbai, I cannot but agree with her. Every place, every moment has a story, true, but Mumbai with its teeming millions who live, work, travel, earn and interact in unique ways, can make you weave stories every moment of your stay here.

Here is one which I was a part…a non-descript moment which got engraved in my memory because I decided to hire a particular auto-rickshaw. June 2009. I was interning with an organization whose office was in Prabhadevi. On my way back from office I took a harbor line local from Vadala. It was around 8:30 that I reached Govandi station and got out looking for auto-rickshaws. The hostel mess would serve dinner till 9 and I wanted to freshen up before it. Walking out of the station, I dint see any on the road and was irked.

I had walked almost 100-150 meters from the station gate and came across the first auto-rickshaw. Thanks to my lucky stars, the auto-wallah agreed to give me a ride back to the hostel. While I boarded the rickshaw, he turned around the vehicle and paused for a second near the jalebi (a sweet dish popular in north India) wallah across the road. Sticking out his neck, he shouted out at a young girl standing there, “I will just be back in 5 minutes”. I do not exactly remember what the girl looked like. Out of my curiosity, I asked the driver, “Who is she?” His face glowed with that quintessential fatherly affection and he said, “That’s my daughter. I had promised her a trip around Govandi. She is waiting for me.”

In a moment I took a trip back to my childhood. Every evening I used to wait for my father to get back home so that he would take me for a walk and get me some candies. Suddenly I was full of guilt for spoiling an evening trip of this child, of stealing away a moment precious to her childhood. I offered to step out of the auto and hire another one, but the poor father said this would only help him earn some extra money. I stayed. He rode me to my hostel. The meter read 10 bucks. I gave him a Rs. 20 note and didn’t take the change he was returning. Penance. I asked him to buy some jalebi for his daughter. He laughed a little and drove out of my sight.

Since then, every time I have thought about a father child relationship, I have offered my silent apologies to the kid. Did he go back straight to his daughter? Did he find another passenger who wanted to go to Chembur? Or to Andheri? Did he take another passenger just to earn some money for his kid? Was the little girl waiting where I saw her last? How long did she wait? Did he buy her the jalebi I offered as my apology? What was the mood at home like when they met at night? Was she happy after a ride or sulking because Papa broke another promise?

I have no answers to these questions…but then I still keep looking around for that faceless child every time I pass Govandi. I will not recognize the auto walla even if I find him again…but I still look for him…for in this city full of stories, who knows the three of us might just meet again…if we do…well serendipity would have my faith for the rest of my days…maybe…somewhere…someday…and somehow.

Friday, November 13, 2009

The opium of life…

While sitting at the window seat on a train from Kolkata, I was eagerly awaiting for it to reach my hometown Gaya…I had slept for the entire journey and hence had lost track of the train timings…I saw traces of settlements…few crackers here and there…for it was Diwali night…yet it was dark outside the window…the darkness that was darker than the darkness within the human soul…darker than the darkness within me…I dint recognize the place, dark and eerily silent…till I saw the station signboard that read Gaya…and my heart skipped a beat…was Arvind Adiga right…?

I have always maintained that a trip back to my home pulls me 20 years back in time…and I (re) live experiences that cannot be captured in words…probably can only be felt…through inexplicable moments like listening to “Aap ki Framayish” on Vividh Bharati…and it being the only radio station your fancy cell phone can capture after a flurry of radio stations in a bigger city…the silence that plays music to you at ten in the night with the whole town asleep…or the songs of birds that enrapture you at five in the morning…the street vendors selling everything from coriander leaves to eggs to curd…a business they carry on their heads and a livelihood they earn walking on dusty roads…there is innocence…there is honesty…a warmth and a personalized care…a beauty in the simplicity of life…

I am not trying to paint a romantic picture of the utter poverty in which they live their life…it is just that there is something that holds things together…has held them together since I have known or maybe since ages…some strength of character…some enthusiasm to see the seasons under the sun…storm through misery and suffering to live another day in hope of a better tomorrow…and energy to toil and a joy in reaping the harvests…something that drives people…in the same direction and yet they tread on different paths…I feel it…that something is nothing but faith…unfathomable…invincible…hopelessly powerful…

Six days after Diwali the people in this part of the country celebrate a festival called Chhath…a festival where people worship both the setting and the rising sun…fast for nearly 48 hours…men and women alike…caste…class…boundaries…everything blurs...there is an offering at dusk another at the subsequent dawn…a mass exodus towards the river…people on feet…people on bicycles…on scooters…people in SUVs…in buses and in trucks…riot of colors…red…electric blues…fluorescent oranges…shocking pinks…bottle greens…golden…grey…mustard...beige…bejeweled and simple…I don’t know if the English word fete can capture the ambience…but “mela” is what it is in Hindi…20 people accompanying one who is fasting…one driving six who are fasting to the river…everything from Mumbai bhel puri to papri chaat and from groundnuts to noodles…dust…chill...mad fervor…folk songs…seeking fertility…of soil…of mind…in life…of life…an attempt to unite earth, fire, water, wind and space…to propitiate the elements of life…an effort to see through life…to what lies beyond…

This madness when felt leaves a lasting impression…especially when it is reinforced while driving back through the narrow lanes and by-lanes of the city…the small and yet smaller shops…rusty old buildings…temples that have now given away to time…small doesn’t really look small here…probably there is nothing big to set it against…or rather the big is so big…one ends up getting lost and sees only small…juxtaposing never feels so worthless…the motifs that time replays and the refrain of the folk songs vanish into the darkness and silence of the place…of the moment…and you can only feel the wind…that has been there for a long time…ever since history has been around…and there is faith…in everything…in something…